Electric dryer won't heat troubleshooting video

These troubleshooting tips are for an electric dryer. If you have a gas dryer that won't heat, use these troubleshooting tips in this video.

A dryer that won’t heat can keep both your clothes and your mood damp

In this step by step guide we troubleshoot why your electric dryer won’t heat anymore, including checking the heating element, high-limit thermostat, operating thermostat, thermal cut-off fuse and timer.

Learn about a few easy tests you can run to find the problem, including learning how to use a multi meter to make sure current is flowing between the parts.

Once you know what the issue is, follow our step-by-step guides to fix your dryer—and brighten your spirits.

Check out our DIY dryer repair help page for additional videos, repair guides and articles.

Tools and parts needed

• Screwdriver

• Multi meter

• Work gloves

• Heating element

• High-limit thermostat

• Operating thermostat

• Thermal cut-off fuse

• Timer

Remove the back panel from the dryer, then remove the back of the control panel. Unplug the large red wire from terminal "A" on the timer.

Set the multi meter to read ohms of resistance.

Measure resistance between the large red wire on the timer and the heating element terminal where the large red wire is connected.

If you measure near 15 ohms of resistance through this circuit, then you know that the heating element, high-limit thermostat, operating thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse are all okay. You can skip ahead to learn how to check out your timer.

Make sure heating element works

If you measured no electrical continuity, which is an "OL" on your multi meter, then we’ll check the heating element. Place your meter leads on the heating element terminals.

• You should measure near 15 ohms of resistance through the heating element. If you measured no continuity, then the heating element is broken.

This video will show you how to replace it. If you measured near 15 ohms of resistance, then the heating element is good.

Check high-limit thermostat

We’ll check the high-limit thermostat next.

Place one meter lead on each terminal of the high-limit thermostat. You should measure near 0 ohms. If you measured no continuity, then the high-limit thermostat will need to be replaced.

Test operating thermostat

If your high-limit thermostat is okay, we’ll check the operating thermostat next.

• Place one meter lead on the red wire and the other meter lead on the red-white wire. You should measure near 0 ohms of resistance through the operating thermostat.

If you measured no continuity, the operating thermostat will need to be replaced.

Did thermal cut-off fuse fail?

If your operating thermostat is good, we’ll check the thermal cut-off fuse next.

• Place one meter lead on the red-white wire and the other on the red wire. You should measure near 0 ohms.

If you measured no continuity, you’ll need to replace the thermal cut-off fuse.

Check timer last

If the thermal cut-off fuse is good, we’ll check the timer last.

• With the dryer still disconnected, turn the timer to timed dry, high heat. Place one meter lead on terminal "A" with the red wire and the other on terminal "C" with the black wire. If you measured no continuity, then the timer is broken.

Here’s a video that will show you how to replace it.

Other possible problems

If you’ve made it through all these checks and you still haven’t found your problem, you could have a defective motor centrifugal switch, a bad plug or a failed circuit breaker. You'll need to get a service technician to check these for you.

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